From Biscuits to Barrels: The Rise of Indian Whisky

Discover how Paul John and his innovative distillery have transformed the reputation of India in the global whisky arena.

Paul John, a visionary of Indian whisky.

India’s whisky landscape, shaped significantly by Paul John’s drive and vision, is now experiencing a renaissance. His journey began in a rather unexpected place—a biscuit factory that crumbled under his management. John recalls, “There was a biscuit factory… I thought, ‘Why not biscuits? Everybody eats biscuits!’” The endeavor, however, was short-lived, leading him to a different kind of distillation—whisky.

Recognizing the potential in India’s booming alcohol market of the 1990s, Paul John transformed the derelict factory into a distillery and launched Original Choice whisky in 1996. While this whisky became popular among the masses within India, it faced criticism from connoisseurs for its distillation process that often bore similarities to rum-making. The distinction between whisky and rum, especially in a country where both thrive, sparked debates and reflections on the identity of Indian whisky on the global stage.

A Journey Begins in Goa

Tapping into the spirit of adventure, John ventured to Florida—a facet reminiscent of whisky pioneers past, such as Japan’s Masataka Taketsuru. In Florida, he immersed himself in the rich world of single malts, igniting a passion that would later lead to the creation of Paul John single malts, launched in the UK in 2012. “In Florida, I started tasting high-quality whiskies… and that is how I decided to create single malts in India,” he recalls.

The setting for this venture was Goa, where John sought to build a state-of-the-art distillery tailored to the unique climatic conditions of the region—a stark contrast to the traditional whisky-making regions of Scotland and Ireland. “Whisky making is 50% art and 50% science,” explains master distiller Michael D’Souza. He faced challenges posed by Goa’s hot and humid environment, which required innovative adaptations in their distillation processes.

Michael D’Souza, the master distiller contributing to India’s whisky revolution.

Breaking Boundaries and Winning Hearts

Despite initial hurdles, the first Paul John single malt was met with acclaim, winning awards and gaining recognition in Europe before making its way back home. This was not just a personal victory for John but a testament to India’s growing prominence in the global spirits market.

The evolution of Indian single malts has not gone unnoticed on the international stage. In blind tastings across the UK, Paul John whiskies consistently outperformed esteemed Scotch brands in recent years. Furthermore, in a historic moment for Indian whisky, a collector’s edition of Indri whisky from Piccadilly Distilleries was heralded as the world’s best whisky at Whiskies of the World, solidifying India’s status as a serious contender in the whisky domain.

A Market in Transition

Today, Indian single malts are thriving. Reports reveal that they now account for 53% of total whisky sales in India, a remarkable growth stemming from increased disposable income and shifting consumer preferences towards premium products. The combined whisky market in India is on track to reach USD 21.13 billion and is expected to grow steadily, reflecting a cultural maturation of whisky appreciation among Indian consumers.

The rise of brands like Crazy Cock from South Seas Distilleries, which launched two new expressions—‘Rare’ and ‘Dhua’—into the market, showcases the rich legacy and the innovative spirit of Indian distilleries. Rupi Chinoy, Director of South Seas Distilleries, states, “Our legacy predates most players in the industry,” displaying a pride that resonates with many new and old entrants to this exciting market.

Challenges and Innovations Ahead

While the future looks bright for Indian whisky, challenges remain. One key ingredient, peat, which imparts a smoky profile to whisky, is not readily available in India. John elaborates, “We still haven’t found peat in India… Most peat used worldwide comes from the UK.” This reliance on imports is a hurdle, signaling that the journey toward a fully self-sufficient whisky industry is ongoing.

Yet, as technology enhances whisky distillation processes and more distilleries embrace experimentation, there is hope. John sees a future where whisky culture permeates all layers of society, driven by burgeoning whisky appreciation clubs and a passion for crafting distinctive spirits.

Conclusion: The Future of Indian Whisky

As India continues to carve out its identity in the whisky world, Paul John’s story stands as a potent reminder of what can be achieved through passion and perseverance.

“Most awards at international whisky fairs are now won by non-Scottish brands… India is high on that ladder as well.” – Paul John

The whisky landscape is transforming, and with key players like Paul John and an increasing number of discerning consumers, India is poised to redefine its relationship with whisky for generations to come.

Tags: Whisky, India, Distillation, Spirits, Single Malt, Paul John