Biscuits to Barrels: India’s Whisky Renaissance Through Paul John

Shaping a legacy in the whisky map of the world.

Whisky has long been associated with the rolling hills of Scotland and the picturesque distilleries of Ireland. However, there’s an evolving narrative that speaks to the heart of India, a country now carving its niche among the world’s finest spirits. At the forefront of this transformation is Paul P. John, a visionary whose journey from biscuits to barrels is nothing short of remarkable.

The Sweet Start: From Failed Biscuits to Whisky Dreams

Imagine standing in the ruins of a once-thriving biscuit factory destined for closure. This was the starting point for John at the tender age of 21. Inspired to breathe new life into the abandoned enterprise, he targeted the very local staple of biscuits. As he recounts, the venture was ambitious but went awry after just two years: “It was a disaster.”

Reflecting on those early dreams, John’s foray into the alcohol industry was born out of necessity and opportunity. With the support of his family, he made the leap from biscuits to liquor, transforming the defunct factory into a distillery. In 1996, he launched the Original Choice whisky, which quickly rose to fame within India, achieving phenomenal sales despite a complex global identity. However, John’s aspirations extended beyond mere commercial success, he set his sights on crafting exceptional spirits that could compete on a global scale.

Reviving a Legacy: Global Influences and Local Craftsmanship

Whisky production is often steeped in tradition. For John, the road to mastery began in Florida, where exposure to premium single malts changed his perspective and ignited his mission to pen a new chapter in Indian whisky. John explains:

“I thought, ‘This is something we don’t have back home.’ And that is how I decided to create single malts in India.”

Upon returning, Goa emerged as the perfect setting for his distillery, thanks to its vibrant culture and environment conducive to whisky production. Here, John’s leap of faith echoed the legendary story of Masataka Taketsuru, Japan’s whisky forefather. John was not only rebuilding but also preparing to reshape a national identity, much like Taketsuru had done for Japanese whisky decades earlier.

Crafting whisky in the heat of Goa.

Innovation Meets Tradition: A New Era of Whisky Production

Introducing a fresh take, master distiller Michael D’Souza emphasized the need for adaptation, stating:

“Whisky making is 50 percent art and 50 percent science. Goa is hot and humid, so we had to adapt everything—from the pot stills to the process—to suit the conditions.”

The inaugural Paul John single malt was unveiled in the UK in 2012, and while initial skepticism lingered, international acclaim followed. Fast forward to 2014, and Paul’s whiskies began outperforming renowned Scottish brands in blind tastings across the UK—an astonishing feat that earned them prestigious accolades in London, Glasgow, and San Francisco.

Beyond Borders: The Changing Global Whisky Landscape

In the world of whisky, the competition is fierce. Traditionally, Scotland reigned supreme, but the landscape is shifting. Today, the majority of awards at international whisky fairs are being claimed by non-Scottish labels. A noteworthy example is the collector’s edition of Indri whisky from Piccadilly Distilleries, which was honored as the world’s best. The applause isn’t just for the labels; it’s a celebration of a spirit culture blossoming within India.

John acknowledges the progress, stating that the country has evolved significantly over the last two decades. As he puts it:

“Technology has improved the quality of distillation.”

Despite the transformation, challenges remain. One crucial ingredient, peat, is still a missing link in India’s whisky equation, leading John to import his peat from Scotland. This endeavor highlights the underpinning complexities of melding traditional practices with modern innovations, aligning with global standards while embracing local nuances.

Whisky enthusiasts gather for a tasting session.

The Future of Whisky: Culture and Community

As we gaze into the future of whisky in India, excitement proliferates. The burgeoning whisky appreciation culture, fueled by clubs in Bengaluru and Goa, indicates that even smaller cities will soon partake in this spirited journey. John, with a mixture of pride and humility, explains:

“Most of the action—tasting sessions and exclusive releases—is still in the metros. But it’s just a matter of time before it spreads to every level of society.”

With a dialect of flavors and a diverse lineup of single malts, it is clear that India is no longer a footnote but part of a broader whisky narrative. As I sip on a glass of Paul John’s exquisite selection, I can’t help but feel a sense of hope—hope that India’s place on the global whisky map is just beginning. The intricate dance between tradition and innovation shows promise, and perhaps this is just the beginning of a great story.

Conclusion: A Journey We All Can Toast To

Paul John’s journey reminds us that every great endeavor starts with a single step. In this case, it began with a few cookies, and it evolved into a global phenomenon that celebrates the essence of craftsmanship, culture, and community. A toast, then, to the future of Indian whisky—may it continue to rise, refine, and redefine!