Biscuits to Barrels: Paul John and the Reshaping of India’s Whisky Landscape

Paul P. John’s journey into the world of whisky is as unique as the beverages he creates. A former biscuit factory owner, John’s early enthusiasm for the food industry crumbled, leading to his remarkable transformation into a whisky pioneer. In the 1990s, the Indian alcohol market was vastly different from what it is today. Initially viewed with scorn in popular media, the sector struggled under the stigma of country liquor prevalence.

A New Beginning in Distillation

When John converted his biscuit factory into a distillery, he had no idea it would kickstart a movement. “Back then, country liquor dominated the market,” John recalls, laughing at how liquor entrepreneurs were often painted as villains in Malayalam cinema. Despite launching Original Choice whisky in 1996, which sold millions of cases, the product was largely dismissed by connoisseurs as it was predominantly made from molasses—creating an identity crisis between rum and whisky in the eyes of critics.

However, the tale took a significant turn when John found inspiration far beyond his Indian roots. In Florida, captivated by the depth and quality of single malts, he recognized a golden opportunity: to create premium Indian single malts capable of standing proudly alongside their restless Scottish counterparts. This intuition and desire sparked a revolution.

Crafting premium whiskies under the Goan sun

A Flavorful Fusion of Art and Science

By 2005, Goa became the birthplace of Paul John whiskies—a bold decision echoing the legacy of Japanese whisky visionary Masataka Taketsuru. Just as Taketsuru sought Glasgow-like climates to craft authentic Japanese whisky, John chose Goa for its unique profile. The distillery’s master craftsman, Michael D’Souza, acknowledges the challenge of adapting whisky-making techniques in a hot, humid environment. “It’s 50% art and 50% science,” he states, reflecting the intricate balance of tradition and adaptation that defines their process.

In 2012, Paul John whiskies debuted in the UK, where they would gather acclaim through awards and competitions. After winning over whiskey aficionados in Europe, John finally dared to launch his creation in Indian markets— a reassuring move that echoed a sentiment inherent in his brand: excellence knows no borders.

Rising Above the Competition

The whisky industry has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past two decades, aided by advances in distillation methods. John highlights a significant evolution: “We’ve moved from regular column distillation to vacuum distillation, which removes more impurities.” This shift has allowed for a newfound purity and character in Indian whiskies, offering an unexpected treat for global palates.

In blind tastings across various UK cities, Paul John whiskies often outperformed renowned Scottish labels, solidifying their esteemed place among connoisseurs. This accomplishment was not an isolated victory; it signalled the rising prominence of Indian single malts on the international stage. Just last year, a limited-edition Indri whisky from Piccadilly Distilleries was celebrated as the world’s best at a prestigious event in the United States—indicating a shift in global perceptions of Indian whisky.

The Influence of Peat and Future Aspirations

Yet, even with such achievements, challenges remain. A noteworthy hurdle for Indian distillers is sourcing peat, a vital ingredient that imbues whisky with its signature smokiness. While the UK provides this essential element, John expresses optimism about future possibilities, believing, “It’s just a matter of time before whisky culture spreads to every level of society.”

Clubs and communities dedicated to whisky tasting are gaining momentum, creating a fertile ground for growth throughout India’s metropolitan areas and beyond. As enthusiasts convene to explore the complexities of this age-old spirit, the broader public will certainly catch on—a tantalizing forecast for whisky lovers of all kinds.

Looking Ahead

The journey of Paul John serves as a mirror reflecting the broader evolution of Indian whisky. “Japan has some fantastic single malts, and India is high on that ladder as well,” asserts John, signifying the global recognition Indian whisky is beginning to receive. With brands like Paul John spearheading the charge and transcending boundaries of traditional whisky-making practices, the world is set to witness a truly vibrant era of innovation and craftsmanship.

The renaissance of whisky appreciation in India

Ultimately, the story of Paul John and the rise of Indian single malts is about more than just whisky; it’s a narrative filled with resilience, ambition, and courage. Just as whisky is a blend of many components, so too is this story—intertwined with tradition yet bursting with modern flavor. For whisky aficionados everywhere, this is an exciting chapter still being written in the vast history of spirits.

Conclusion

This captivating evolution dovetails neatly with the global whisky narrative, emphasizing that India, despite its late start, is poised to become a key player on the international stage. With visionary makers like Paul John at the helm, the future of Indian whisky looks exceptionally bright.

TAGS: lifestyle, whisky, Paul John